01 pa 13
Zojambulajambula: Mmene Nsalu ya Kente ya Ghana inakhalira Pansi Ponseponse
Darkroom London Kodi amatchedwa chiyani? Kente (wotchulidwa KEN-TEH)
Zachokera kuti? Maiko a Akan a ku Ghana, makamaka Ashanti
Ndani ali nacho icho? Project Bly, Novica, OpenSky
02 pa 13
Osangokhala Mchitidwe
Lonny Aliyense amene amakonda mapangidwe, kaya ndi mafashoni kapena zokongoletsa kunyumba, amadziwa kuti zonsezi ndizochitika. Iwo amabwera ndipo amapita. Zina mwazinthu zabwino kwambiri sizimatha, kapena kubwera ndi kunja kwa mafashoni zaka zingapo. Ena amatisiya ife akugwedeza mitu yathu momwe angapezere kutchuka kotere koyamba, koma amatha kubweranso. Kaŵirikaŵiri kuphulika ndi kusinthasintha kwazinthu kungatanthauzidwe kukhala kungofuna kusintha kwa zokonda. Koma nthawi zina kachitidwe kawiri kawiri ndi mbali ya chinthu china chachikulu, chikhalidwe chosinthika chomwe chikuwonetsedwa m'mafashoni atsopano. Ndipo pamene izo zikuchitika ndi chinachake choti chikumbukire.
03 a 13
Chisinthiko cha Nsalu ya Kente
Architectural Digest M'zaka za m'ma 1980 ndi 90, nsalu ya Kente inali njira yodabwitsa kwambiri. Muzovala ndi zodzikongoletsera kunyumba zinali njira yoyamba ya kalembedwe ka Afro-centric ya nthawiyo. Ngati munayang'ana nambala iliyonse ya mawonesi a TV mumakhala mukuwona. Ngati munapita kumaseŵera a rap kapena masewera ovina, mwinamwake mumavala. Ndipo ngati mumakonda kukongola kwa Africa, mumakondanso. Chimene simungadziwe ndi chakuti kusintha kwa nsalu ya Kente kumapeto kwa zaka za m'ma 2000 kunayambanso kuwonetseratu dziko lonse lapansi lomwe linali lapadera kwa akuluakulu a Ufumu wa Ashanti komwe kuli lero ku Ghana, kumadzulo kwa Africa. Ndipo pamene chikhalidwe chomwe chinayendetsa njira yake pofika kumapeto kwa zaka zapitazo sichisonyeza chizindikiro cha kubwerera, m'poyenera kuzindikira kuti chinthu chake chachiwiri chinali chochitika monga mbiri ya mafashoni.
04 pa 13
Kuwonetsera Kwachifumu
Lonny Pogwirizana ndi Bono, Denkyera, Akwamu, Fante (Fanti) ndi ena, Ufumu wa Ashanti (Asante) unali umodzi mwa miyambo yambiri ya anthu a Akan, omwe gawo lawo linali ndi madera ambiri a masiku ano, Ghana, Togo ndi Côte d ' Ivoire (1). Yakhazikitsidwa m'zaka za zana la 18 ndi Mfumu Osei Tutu, Ashanti mwamsanga anauka kuti akhale wamkulu kwambiri komanso wamphamvu kwambiri kudziko la Akan (2). Nsalu ya Kente idalengedwa kuti iwonetsere chuma ndi kupindulitsa kwa mafumu monga mtundu wa regalia wokhazikika pamisonkhano yapadera (3). Kente amatchulidwa kuti nwentoma, mawu akuti Kente amachokera ku "kenten," kutanthawuza dengu - kutanthauzira ku mawonekedwe a baski a nsalu komanso nsalu ya raffia imene idagwiritsidwa ntchito palimodzi (4). Mofanana ndi zida zambiri za chikhalidwe cha ku Africa, kupukuta nsalu ya Kente sikungogwiritsa ntchito nsalu zokhazokha, ndizovuta kumva komanso chizoloŵezi chomwe chigawo chilichonse chili ndi tanthauzo.
05 a 13
Mawu Opangidwa
Akiiki "Zipangizo zopangira zojambulajambula zimapangidwa ndi manja ndi ovala nsalu zokha kapena ena omwe apanga zipangizo zamakono. Zida zojambulirapo zimaphatikizapo zida zogwirira ntchito, Kofi nsadua (" lobadwa ndi Lachisanu "), lopangidwa ndi nkhuni; , zipilala zinayi kapena zisanu ndi chimodzi (asatia, asanan kapena asasia) zomwe zimagwiritsidwa ntchito pamapalasitiki ndi mapiritsi (osadyeka) ndi spools (donowa) atalowetsedwa mkati mwawo; shuttles (kurokurowa) ali ndi zida (inshu) (tabon) Zida zina zothandizira ndizowombera (fwirdie) ndi bobbin winder (dadabena), malo okhala (menkomena), omwe amagwiritsidwa ntchito pogwira zikhomo (nthawi yachisanu) ndi mawonekedwe ozungulira (asakuntun kapena Asadua) Zidazi, monga zida mu nsalu, zili ndi tanthauzo lophiphiritsa ndipo zimapatsidwa ulemu waukulu. " - Midwest Global Group
06 cha 13
Mtundu Womwe Mukutanthauza
Black Blanc Pakati pokhapokha pokhapokha tanthauzo la kupukuta nsalu, gawo lirilonse la nsalu yotsirizidwa limapereka tanthauzo lonse. Mtundu uliwonse umene umagwiritsidwa ntchito mu Kente umakhala ndi tanthauzo lenileni. Izi zikhoza kuchokera ku machiritso ndi ubwino, kulumikizana, machiritso auzimu ndi chikondi (5). Mulimonse muli mitundu yoposa khumi yomwe imapezeka pa nsalu zambiri za Kente, zomwe zili ndi matanthauzo ambiri. Mndandanda wochulukirapo kwambiri wa chizindikiro chopangidwa mu mitundu yosiyanasiyana ingapezeke pano.
07 cha 13
Zitsanzo Zomwe Zimakuwuzani Nkhani
Kukongoletsa kwakadzi Ngakhale nsonga ndi nsalu za nsalu yomaliza ya Kente zimanyamula tanthauzo. Kawirikawiri ziphuphu ndizo zomwe zimapangitsa kuti asankhe dzina ndi tanthauzo lonse la chidutswa (6). Zipangizozo zimagwiritsidwa ntchito m'mizere yosiyanasiyana yajambula yomwe imabwerezabwereza. Zitsanzo zazing'onozi zimanyamula maina ndi matanthauzo awo onse monga Ohene Anewa ("Mfumu ikuwona chirichonse), Nkyimkyim (" moyo si njira yolunjika ") ndi Niyata (" lupanga lakuthwa konsekonse ") (7).
08 pa 13
Kuitana Mwambo
Kayla Jones Atatha kumaliza nsalu yotsirizayo amatha kudziwika. Pali zoposa mazana atatu zowonjezera nsalu za Kente, aliyense ali ndi mayina ndi matanthauzo. Ena, monga nsalu ya Oyokoman, amatchulidwa kuti ndi mabanja. Chitsanzo ichi, chomwe chinali chitsanzo choyamba cha Kente, chinali chovala ndi Otumfuo Nana Prempeh I, mfumu yachitatu ya Ashanti, yemwe adachokera ku banja la Oyokoman (8). Ena amapempherera chikhalidwe monga "Obaakofu Mmu Man" ("Munthu mmodzi sagwira mtundu") kapena "Abusua Ye Dom" ("Banja lachilendo ndilo mphamvu") (9).
09 cha 13
Chizindikiro cha Ufulu
Mankhwala a Hamill Amitundu Kutsirizitsa mphamvu za ku Ulaya mu Africa sizinali zovuta komanso zosavuta kuzipeza. Ngakhale kuti zaka mazana ambiri za ku Britain zinakula kwambiri m'derali, mpaka mu 1901 Ufumu wa Ashanti unakhala British Protorate. Pambuyo pogonjetsedwa ndi Ashanti mu Nkhondo ya Golden Stool, yomwe inagwiridwa ndi msilikali wotchuka wa mfumukazi Yaa Asantewaa, Ufumu wa Ashanti unaphatikizidwa mwakhama ku Gold Coast Colony (10) ku Britain. Komabe Zaka zoposa makumi asanu, Ashanti adzalandira ufulu wawo komanso Ghana (11). Zidzakhala kuti kupambana ndi chikondwerero cha padziko lapansi chomwe chikanati chidzabweretse nsalu ya Kente mu zovala ndi nyumba za anthu padziko lonse lapansi kwa zaka zikubwerazi.
10 pa 13
Kente & Pan-Africanism
Otsatsa Okhala ndi Moyo Pa March 6, 1957, Ghana inalengezedwa popanda ulamuliro wa Britain (12). Ngakhale ndi zowerengera zina zomwe Ghana imakhala dziko loyamba la Africa kuti lipeze izi, pali malo okwanira osagwirizana pa mfundoyi (13). Chimene chiri chodziwikiratu makamaka, ndichokuti kumasulidwa kwa Ghana pansi pa pulezidenti wa panthaŵiyo, Kwame Nkrumah, kunali kupambana kwa kayendetsedwe ka kayendetsedwe ka gulu la Pan-African lomwe lakhala likugwira ntchito m'makontinenti ambiri pakutha zaka zambiri kuti anthu apite patsogolo kuchokera ku Africa kuzungulira dziko lonse lapansi makamaka pa dziko lonse lapansi (14).
11 mwa 13
Kupanga ndi Ndale
Zowonjezera za Fusion Global Kuyambira mu ntchito ya mzaka za m'ma 1800 Edward Wilmot Blyden, ndipo adalembedwa ngati mphindi mu 1900 ndi wolemba Chingerezi Henry Sylvester Williams, Pan-Africanism anali ndi nzeru zamaganizo, zandale komanso zamakhalidwe zomwe zinakonzedwa mwakonzedwe ka WEB a DuBois 'Pan-African Congress (15) ). Pogwiritsa ntchito ufulu wa mayiko a ku Africa monga chimodzi mwa zolinga zake, Pulezidenti wa Pan-African Republic inachita ntchito monga kuwala kwa James Africanus Beale ndi Frederick Douglass, komanso CLR James ndi Ge Padge. Onse awiri James ndi Padmore, abwenzi kuyambira adakali ana, anali aphungu kwa Nkrumah asanakhalepo pomwe pulezidenti wake, Padmore akugwira ntchito ku Nkrumah (16).
12 pa 13
Chikhalidwe Chogawana & Chiyembekezo Chogawana
Zowonjezera za Fusion Global Pamene Ghana inakula kwambiri pazomwe zidali padziko lapansi, nsalu ya chikhalidwe cha Akan idalinso ndi chidziwitso chatsopano padziko lapansi. Nsalu ya Kente inakhala chizindikiro cha kugawidwa kwa African inheritance komanso chiyembekezo ndi chikhazikitso cha tsogolo labwino lomwe likubwera. Kusintha sikunali mwangozi kwathunthu. DuBois ndi Nkrumah - mwiniwake wa Akan ngakhale kuti sanali wa Ashanti kuchotsa - anagwiritsa ntchito kupanga kente nsalu yogwirizanitsa yomwe inakhala, kuvala pa nthawi yapadera. Nkrumah atamasulidwa m'ndende mu 1957, masiku atangotha chipani chake cha ndale anapambana chisankho chofunikira, adatuluka mu ukapolo atavala chitsanzo cha Kente chotchedwa Mmeeda (MEE-DAH), kutanthauza, "chinachake chimene sichinachitikepo kale." Pambuyo pake chaka chimenecho pamene adalengeza ufulu wa fuko lake, adavala chitsanzo cha Adwini Asa kapena, "Ndachita bwino" (17). Ndipo pamene Nkruma adakwatirana ndi Fathia Rizk, yemwe anali "msika wamsika" - omwe anali ndi malonda a zamalonda omwe ankalamulira malonda a nsalu - adayamikila chisankho chake ndi kupanga fathia Fata Nkrumah kapena "Fathia suti Nkrumah" ( 18). Ngakhale kuti Nkrumah adzaponyedwa mu 1966 pamene anali kutali ndi dzikoli, Ghana idzakhalabe chizindikiro chachikulu cha Pan-Africanists padziko lonse lapansi. M'zaka zake zomaliza, WEB DuBois angapange Ghana kukhala nyumba yake, kusinthana ndi chikhalidwe chake cha ku America cha Ghana (19).
13 pa 13
Mbiri Yolemera Yakale
Ghana Ndikukukondani Mu kulengedwa monga mwa china chirichonse, mbiriyakale imatenga kutembenuka kosadabwitsa, kuganiza nthawi zakale ndikuziganizira kuti zigwirizane ndi zochitika zatsopano ndi zosayembekezereka. Pachifukwa ichi, mawonekedwe okuluka omwe anapangidwa kuti apange mafumu ndi anthu wamba a mtundu umodzi adakhala chizindikiro cha cholowa chofala, zofala komanso zomwe zimachititsa anthu ambiri m'mayiko osiyanasiyana padziko lapansi. Pochita izi, nsalu ya Kente idachita zomwe zabwinozo nthawi zonse zimachita - zinagwira mphindi yofunikira kwambiri m'dziko losintha. Ndipo kaya Kente akubwera kanthawi kachiwiri, zochitika zake zachiwiri zimayambitsa funso limene anthu amawonekeranso pa nthawi yathu, ndi nthawi ziti, malingaliro ndi mapangidwe omwe atifotokoze?